Then custom build the sump to exactly what you want. If you want my honest opinion, a coast to coast, Calfo style internal over flow leading to an external overflow box using the BeanAnimal return to a sump below the stand is the way to go. I would also recommend his overflow design called a beananimal overflow. Take a look at journal for a high tech tank with an overflow. While the overflow will cause the co2 to outgass quicker, it is a fractional change. Its very easy to keep CO2 levels up even with an overflow and a sump. I will say that there is essentially no reason not to do an overflow if your only concern is CO2. But, that can be guarded against and it does make the surface of your water very clean. If you go sump you can stick all your equipment in the sump.Īs for overflow, I personally don't like them much because of the ease of losing fish and shrimp into them. You will also need some big heaters for such a tank and that means some big things in the back that are hard to hide. At a minimum I would think you would need two Fluval FX6s for such a large tank. If you go with canister filter on such a tank, well its expensive and you have a lot less control over flow strength etc. I used a Ghost overflow at first before building my own overflow box.I would not think of doing a large tank without a sump. I set my siphon elbow as low as possible in the overflow box. I left maybe an inch of space between the elbow's opening and the bottom of the overflow box so water can enter the elbow freely. The height of the secondary pipe defines the normal water level in the external overflow box. I set mine high enough to eliminate the waterfall effect as water flows from the internal box to the external box. The emergency has to be higher than the secondary. But leave a little space between the top of the emergency pipe and the top lip of the external overflow box so that water doesn't spill onto the floor if there's ever a blockage to the primary siphon. I split the difference between the top of the double elbow and the lip of the overflow box. Slowly close the siphon gate valve until the water level in the external box is above the siphon, and slowly entering the secondary plumbing. You'll have to make very minor changes to the gate valve over the next couple of weeks as pipe friction changes. So I went back in and shortened the primary drain pipe inside the overflow box by about 3/4 inch and then seated the u pipe lower. Now the whole u pipe including the hole is barely underwater. The secondary drain is down to a trickle when the primary gate is adjusted. The main gurgling noise is gone but I now have a fair amount of noise coming from the waterfall between the inside the tank compartment,ent and the outside compartment. Should I plug the hole in the top of the primary u pipe and leave the secondary u pipe hole? And I still have a tiny bit of water going through my secondary drain. If the water level isn't near the top of the primary tube (and I'm assuming not since it sounds like the hole still exists), you can raise the water level in the external box by closing the gate valve slightly. A Basic Plumbing Set Up, using a Durso and Overflow Box. As Jon mentioned earlier, you can further control the water level in the box (to mitigate the waterfall sound) by raising the level of the secondary tube but the siphon in the primary tube gives you a pretty large tuning window regardless of the height of the secondary tube. I’ve not had the opportunity to utilize a Bean Animal setup, but it can be useful in both quiet operation and draining a large amount of water in a system. The Bean Animal setup is also named after another reefer’s forum name.
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